Only ten days done--ten days which seemed in some ways like forever, and in some ways like we had only just begun. BUT, we were only halfway done at this point! Back in Manang, after finding out that our original plan of doing a side-trek to Tilicho Lake wouldn't work, we had made plans with Richard to add on what's referred to as the Sanctuary Hike, or the shorter, easier hike up to Annapurna Base Camp. We had the time and the desire, as we'd heard the views on this hike were also stunning (since you walk right through the middle of the Annapurna Conservation Area). So, that became the plan!
The next ten days were different from the first. I can't really describe how they were different, but I think it's because we completed the hardest, most anticipated part of the trek so now we were a bit more relaxed I suppose. Our days went as follows:
Day 11: Muktinath to Jomsom (2,720m); 19 kilometers, 7.5 hours
This was a long, hot day. We took the upper, longer route in order to go through the village of Kagbeni, a trekker's favorite because of it's medieval feel of narrow alleyways that go under ground and through buildings.
Day 12: Bus from Jomsom to Tatopani (1,200m); 5 hours, 1,200 NPR each
What else can be said about a five-hour bus ride in the middle of the hot day on an old, crowded bus driving downhill on a dusty, winding road, while looking down at the river hundreds of meters below the drop-off that's only inches away from the bus's tires?
Day 13: Rest day in Tatopani (hot springs)
A nice little village worth an extra day. We did laundry. We drank beer. We enjoyed the hot springs.
Day 14: Tatopani to Ghorepani (2,870m); 17 kilometers, 7.5 hours
Another long day, but oh-so-beautiful day. We started seeing some of the rhododendrons that the area is famous for in the spring. We climbed up again that day and had amazing views of the Annapurnas (including Machapuchare, aka "Fishtail") and the villages below and across on other steep hillsides.
Day 15: Ghorepani to Tadapani (and Poon Hill); 4 hours
We woke up extra early to hike Poon Hill for sunrise, which is what it's famous for. Unfortunately, we missed the turn-off in the dark and didn't make sunrise, but got up high enough to have some good views (some guys coming down said the view from the top was no better than where we were at that time so we didn't continue up--I wasn't feeling well). I had gotten sick the day before and was feeling weak from that after Poon Hill, so we went back to bed for a bit and started a few hours later than normal this day. Once we got going all was well and the rhododendrons were out in full force now, with all the surrounding hillsides a shade of red because there were so many flowers. Stunning.
By this day it was very apparent just how crowded these trails were compared to the Circuit. SO many people!
Day 16: Tadapani to Bamboo; 7.5 hours
Because I was feeling healthy and we had an easy day the day before, we went further than planned today. We just kept going... We ran into a guy, on his way down, who we'd met in the first few days of the Circuit hike and he recommended a good place to stay in the village of Bamboo, so we made it there, had a hot shower (that electrocuted me!), and had some decent food.
*Days 17-20 coming soon!
The next ten days were different from the first. I can't really describe how they were different, but I think it's because we completed the hardest, most anticipated part of the trek so now we were a bit more relaxed I suppose. Our days went as follows:
Day 11: Muktinath to Jomsom (2,720m); 19 kilometers, 7.5 hours
This was a long, hot day. We took the upper, longer route in order to go through the village of Kagbeni, a trekker's favorite because of it's medieval feel of narrow alleyways that go under ground and through buildings.
Day 12: Bus from Jomsom to Tatopani (1,200m); 5 hours, 1,200 NPR each
What else can be said about a five-hour bus ride in the middle of the hot day on an old, crowded bus driving downhill on a dusty, winding road, while looking down at the river hundreds of meters below the drop-off that's only inches away from the bus's tires?
Day 13: Rest day in Tatopani (hot springs)
A nice little village worth an extra day. We did laundry. We drank beer. We enjoyed the hot springs.
Day 14: Tatopani to Ghorepani (2,870m); 17 kilometers, 7.5 hours
Another long day, but oh-so-beautiful day. We started seeing some of the rhododendrons that the area is famous for in the spring. We climbed up again that day and had amazing views of the Annapurnas (including Machapuchare, aka "Fishtail") and the villages below and across on other steep hillsides.
Day 15: Ghorepani to Tadapani (and Poon Hill); 4 hours
We woke up extra early to hike Poon Hill for sunrise, which is what it's famous for. Unfortunately, we missed the turn-off in the dark and didn't make sunrise, but got up high enough to have some good views (some guys coming down said the view from the top was no better than where we were at that time so we didn't continue up--I wasn't feeling well). I had gotten sick the day before and was feeling weak from that after Poon Hill, so we went back to bed for a bit and started a few hours later than normal this day. Once we got going all was well and the rhododendrons were out in full force now, with all the surrounding hillsides a shade of red because there were so many flowers. Stunning.
By this day it was very apparent just how crowded these trails were compared to the Circuit. SO many people!
Day 16: Tadapani to Bamboo; 7.5 hours
Because I was feeling healthy and we had an easy day the day before, we went further than planned today. We just kept going... We ran into a guy, on his way down, who we'd met in the first few days of the Circuit hike and he recommended a good place to stay in the village of Bamboo, so we made it there, had a hot shower (that electrocuted me!), and had some decent food.
*Days 17-20 coming soon!
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