Paradise Found

I found a nice little restaurant for lunch here in Varkala, down in a basement and full of Indian men. Chicken curry (the only thing on the lunch menu) and porotha (or, paratha... so many different spellings for these foods) and a chai for at least half the price I'd pay just a five minute walk away along the beach in the tourist-laden restaurants.

Varkala, where I've been the past two nights and will stay at least two more, is on the Arabian sea and set up on a few high cliffs above the actual beach. I wandered here, a little weary of what seemed to be a very touristy area, but have found myself a nice little room in a less-touristy part, and only a three minute walk from the beach. As usual, I can't complain!

To rewind, first, however...

I left Alleppey smelling of sandalwood. My host-father, when I was departing, came up to me and smeared some scented oil on me. He said "Now, when you go on bus, everybody will smell you"--or, something along those lines. It was the exact scent that I had in fact noticed a few days before, but couldn't grasp. I kept periodically smelling my arm for the next several hours, it smelled so nice and fresh :)

The father then walked me to the bus station and proceeded to ensure that I got on the right bus at the right time, but not before a quick stop to view his friend's wife's dead body. "My friend's wife passed away. I must go see a dead body before a half-hour. Ten minutes, I will see you at the bus station."

I felt quite taken care of, and was sad to say goodbye, but happy to be on the move... And toward the beach!

As I've said, I've settled myself in nicely to Varkala. My first night wasn't so grand, as I was set off by an obnoxious rickshaw driver who, despite me having requested something different, still went about things his way. I specifically (or, so I thought) bargained with him to take me to the South Cliff near the accommodation and I would then find my own. "Okay, okay." Naturally, he took me to his friend's resort (which is three times what I'm paying for a room now). I said no, too expensive. He said "Okay, I know a place. 300 rupees." I gave him one more chance... Fail. Over on the back streets of the north side he took me to ANOTHER friend's place, they wanted 500. I was tired, annoyed, hot and hungry, so I bargained for one night at 400 Rs. I was happy to have a place to call my own and rest, but I left quite early the next morning in hunt of somewhere else... And found it. I should have known better than to trusty those rickshaw drivers... Next time I'll be a bit more demanding. Or walk.

I've spent yesterday and today reading, eating delicious Indian cuisine (the masala dosa I had for breakfast yesterday was to die for!), drinking chai (not one coffee since stepping foot in India!) and enjoying the beach. At sunset, down in the southern part of the beach where I'm staying, it seems to be where the Indian tourists and locals come for--well, tourism, as well as religious ceremonies. True, Varkala is riddled with tourists, most of them European, but I sat on the beach at sunset last night surrounded by all Indians. The others stay mostly to the north. I only saw a few non-Indians for the hour, all just passing by. It was really quite nice, just watching the ocean and the Indian families--women beautifully adorned in their magnificently colored saris--doing the same as me. Just enjoying the moment :)

So much more to say... It shall come in due time...